July 23, 2011.
Grayson Highlands State Park, Sullivan Swamp, Quebec
Branch Headwaters Bog
7 am. Cloudy,
breezy and cool.
After meeting in the Massey Gap parking lot the
SiteSection crew ascended the trail to the Quebec branch headwaters bog. The
wind was steady and cloud cover thick. We proceeded to basecamp, with Carol
Broderson and Scott Jackson-Ricketts leading a group of six to the site. Devin
went to the campground to find Peter Dutnell and Dave West, both of which
traveled from Charlottesville to participate. Having found them and leaving
maps showing location of the bog, Devin returned to join the others in the bog.
The crew for the day was Carol Broderson, Scott
Jackson-Ricketts, Mica Paluzzi, Allison Herrington, Mason Pullam, Toby Hash,
Kelly Servick, Cecelia Mathis, and Devin Floyd, later joined by Peter Dutnell
and Dave West. Andy Holland emerged from the Rhodo thicket to join the crew as
well.
Throughout the day we rotated between conducting survey
and reviewing and developing protocol for the program.
After a morning of exploration and discovery we regrouped
at basecamp for a lunch break (11:15). Eight participants planned to stay for
only a half day. Earlier, while Devin, Cecelia and Mason were surveying around
the southwest portion of the bog we came across Andy Holland. He was looking
for the BRDC crew and had been roaming the area for about an hour. Among his
first comments were, “I just saw a bear, a male, about 150 pounds!” I did not
know Andy but knew he’d be joining the SiteSection survey crew at some point in
the day (Scott J-R had invited him). I could tell immediately that his skills
would be of help. The tattoo of a rare Appalachian minnow on his forearm served
as supporting evidence. He is skilled in in the areas of reptiles, amphibians
and fish, but it was also clear that his repertoire included navigation,
reading the landscape, tracking, and flora identification. This would be
demonstrated during afternoon expeditions to another more remote area of the
bog.
The final activity just prior to lunch break was to
collect a good rock sample. I reviewed the geology of the mountain, its intense
and explosive volcanic origins, and the make-up of the rock. We passed
fist-sized samples, freshly broken, around the group for a closer look and the
mineral content of the rock. All samples were bagged, as we wanted to ensure we
weren’t creating any new artifacts. All flakes and chunks of rhyolite were
carefully collected after making fist-sized specimens with the rock hammer.
Morning explorations were a great success. Participants
added many new species to the SiteSection inventory list, including ruby-throated
hummingbird, willow fly catcher, bob-white, fragile fern, lady fern, black
bear, wood nymph butterfly, small green woodland orchid, and fireweed. The
cedar waxwings were there in droves with 20 + reported. Small green woodland
orchid counts were arbitrarily halted at 50+. They were everywhere in the bog.
The most common butterflies were wood nymph, variegated fritillary, and
Aphrodite. A deep exploration of several unidentified plants and mushrooms
produced notes and photographs that will (hopefully) shed light on their
identication.
Noteably, we confirmed that the bluet species dominant in
the bog is in fact a creeping variety, sending out runners. This very prostrate
growth pattern in combination with the tiny ovate leaves point to thyme-leaved bluet,
or creeping bluet.
“9:15 am. Vaccinium
species; green leaf, small amount of red. Small bell shaped flowers, red color.
Green/brown new growth; 5.5 feet tall. Greener variety nearby seems to be
older, possibly the same species. Non-hairy twigs and leaves; not
bristled-toothed, gray-brown bark on older growth.” E.B.
“9:27 am. Butterfly
caught…brown underwings with black stripes and 6 small spots. Top of wings
black with orange-golden tips of the wings with two dots on each end. Allison-
4 photos, Toby-2 photos. 4 seen” (Cercyonis pegala, wood nymph
butterfly)C.B.
After lunch, and after a couple of hours of sharing
basecamp with “wild” feral ponies, the remaining crew (Scott, Devin, Kelly and
Andy) made plans for an expedition to a hard-to-reach and unexplored portion of
the bog. It has been known since the onset of the project that the flattest and
lowest portion of the bog (an open area dominated by rushes and sedges) exists
in an area in the north part of the 10 acre bog. It is an island of a clearing
completely surrounded by Rhododendron, Kalmia, Spruce and numerous other
“thick” growing species. Trying to reach the clearing from basecamp by crawling
had not worked during the May visit. We got stuck in the thicket and abandoned
the effort about an hour into it. This time the strategy would be different.
Following the recommendations of Andy, we set off to find
a way into that remote area of the bog. We worked around the southwest end,
around the west side and through the shrubs and trees upslope of the bog on its
north side. Eventually tiny islands of well lit green clearings could barely be
seen through the Rhododendron wall. Andy guided us toward what he thought (and
correctly so) was an entry that we could see on our aerial photograph (google maps). We ended up following a spring and seepage
downslope into the thicket, hopping from one clearing to another. Slowly but
surely sphagnum and cinnamon ferns began to appear. We were at the edge of the
bog. It reaches upslope along its small tributary feeders.
The Quebec Branch Headwaters Bog is a very amorphous
shape and the edges of it reach out in fingers and leaves little pockets,
peninsulas and islands of sphagnum and associated bog indicator species. The
bog is in fact a very complex network, its edges looking very little like the
shape noted by the DCR (I imagine mapping it in detail would be nearly
impossible). The ecotone of the bog is beautifully complex, and it holds in its
patterns echoes of change and transition.
As we entered the north side of the bog network we
encountered plants not seen yet. We saw more green woodland orchid plants but
this time accompanied by a bugleweed species (a mint). It resembled the
mountain mint observed in the west end of the bog. At this locality a small
trickle of a stream passed through and among its small rhyolite pebbles were a
beautiful salamander and a fuzzy dragonfly nymph.
We moved on. Moments later we broke through a thicket.
Ahead of us was a wet meadow opening to the west.
Upon entering, and after being coaxed into inquiry by a
deciduous holly growing in the muck, it became clear that the community of
plants on this end of the bog (north end) was a bit different than that we had
been studying on the southeast side. The most obvious differences were in the
numerous grasses, sedges, rushes and the shrub diversity. The graminoids were
waste deep and new species of willow and serviceberry were found. The ground
was flat, very flat, and the moisture was continuous. As we explored this new
area the diversity and the newness of the species made it clear that a focused
return visit would be necessary. We opted to continue navigating the clearing
and its network of thickets and openings. Very little time was given to
surveying and documenting new species. Priority was given to getting familiar
with the clearing and finding a good path in and out. We did note a new species
of Galium, small colonies of silky willow, and a very unusual alternate-leaved,
five-petaled flower.
We utilized a bear path, as it was recently pressed
through the grasses. Footprints were still visible in the soggy sphagnum,
hummocks were dug into, and potential ground bee and grub sources had been
disturbed. In one location a serviceberry tree
had been pulled over. We did not see, hear or smell the bear, but it
probably saw us!
Because of the impenetrable wall of Rhodos and Kalmia, we
were forced to use the same path to exit this new clearing. We retraced our
steps and walked uphill. Slowly the hawthorns and gooseberries appeared again
and we found ourselves on dry land, climbing a fence and entering the
well-established trail that would take us back to the intersection of the
Appalachian trail an Rhododendron Gap trails. Along the way, and after passing
a couple of small semi-wet seepages, Andy pointed out the primary spring that
forms the origin of Quebec branch. It maintains a clear pool along the trail,
open to the sky. Elderberry grows above it and silky willow chases the moisture
as it seeps, trickles and flows downward into the 10 acre bog. We returned to
basecamp and packed everything up.
After a busy day, an exhausting and exhilarating series of adventures, Scott and I pondered
the good fortune of our new State Park partnership. We felt clear that this
program, SiteSection, could draw the interest of a diverse audience. Young and
old alike enjoyed the program. It was clear that the program could could have a
very positive impact on the lives of the high school students and adults that
are “local” to the habitat being targeted by the program. It also seems
possible that great resources featuring amazing Blue Ridge habitats may result
from the activity of the program. What remains unclear is how the program will
be funded. Clearly a variety of entities and individuals would need to be
convinced of the undeniable and lasting impact this program can have on
underserved Blue Ridge communities and the broader public. We hope that the
enthusiasm generated by this explore + discover + share based program will be
contagious. We will need funding before the full vision of the SiteSection
program can be realized.
